in this newest Diamond talk, I spoke with Rachelle Bergstein, author of Brilliance and hearth: A Biography of Diamonds, which may be published in June through Harper Collins. Bergstein spoke with JCK about why diamonds are ingrained in our culture, the the history of diamond advertising, and the way rappers made diamonds cool—for a second.
JCK: How did you turn into interested in this subject?
Rachelle Bergstein: My first ebook—ladies From the Ankle Down—was about ladies's shoes. once I begun writing that publication, I had a query in my intellect: How does whatever it truly is useful develop into the thing of obsession?
With the internet there is so a lot advice about engagement rings. I realized about Edward Jay Epstein's piece in the Atlantic about N.W. Ayer's crusade for diamonds. That story is really well-trod at this element. I began to consider about diamonds within the stronger experience, not just engagement rings.
The book got here from a question of: Why are we nonetheless valuing diamonds? there has been so tons bad press about diamonds during the past couple of many years. Yet we still agree with this rock to be a magnificent symbol of glamour and romance. And advertising is a part of the story, however that's now not the whole story.
JCK: So what answer did you come up with?
Bergstein: The promoting campaign is an important piece of it. however which you could't bargain that diamonds are appealing. that's anything that gets misplaced in the conversation now. americans are short to say they are nugatory. however they are objectively fascinating, and jewelry is an art form.
Even earlier than the advertising campaign there become a precedent during this nation for wearing gems as an emblem of wealth. We see diamonds in the films, we see our celebrities wearing them. we've been proven from various angles that diamonds are whatever thing that individuals wish to put on and that they talk certain things.
It's a very a superb sound chew to assert that De Beers invented the diamond engagement ring, however that just isn't the case. I saw articles in the long island times within the Twenties about how it's the brand new vogue that men couldn't propose with out a solitaire. here is all smartly earlier than De Beers teamed up with N.W. Ayer.
JCK: How do you suppose that our notion of diamonds has changed?
Bergstein: in the introduction I say that while diamonds are still fashionable, it is not terribly in vogue to love diamonds presently. the entire advice that has come out of Africa and labor practices has had an impact. Blood diamonds have turn into part of our vernacular. individuals comprehend there's a gloomy facet to the business but they don't be aware of exactly what that potential.
however individuals are aware of the negative penalties of the diamond business individuals still need them. it is so ingrained in our tradition that a marriage comes with a diamond that even wise, educated americans can't undo that message. I feel that's ok. I suppose that being informed is important and making wise decisions is also essential, and people should still know that the diamond trade has affected some devastating things. And it's ok to assert that doesn't make the culture now not valid. The Knot found that 88 percent of grooms are nevertheless proposing with a hoop. It tells you that the lifestyle is definitely fairly strong.
JCK: Do you suppose so as to it at all times be robust, even with De Beers cutting out established advertising?
Bergstein: The diamond engagement ring has proven to be tremendously resilient. there is definitely nothing else that serves that feature for us. besides the fact that children, the business needs to bear in mind that we are dealing with a savvier purchaser now. just the typical business with the suggestion and the Diamond is continuously tagline may additionally no longer be adequate. If the promoting were reintroduced, it might need a makeover.
JCK: What do you make of the hip-hop group's embrace of diamonds?
Bergstein: That was an anomalous moment. The bling second didn't come from in the diamond industry. It came from celebrities. For a second it made diamonds cool in a means that De Beers as now not capable of do. if you appear on the Diamond is forever advertisements they are lyrical, they are glamorous, but they are not cool. no person became able to make diamonds cool just like the rap trade did.
JCK: What suggestions would you supply to the business?
Bergstein: there's a long background of underhandedness and manipulation within the industry. The business would do neatly to be sincere and acknowledge that it has a checkered previous and display a way for customers to store for diamonds and gem stones in respectable judgment of right and wrong.
i used to be truly inquisitive about the above-ground mines. For a person who desires to take part in the tradition however wants to be socially conscious, i assumed that become a fine choice.
JCK: What suggestions would you supply to someone desirous to buy a diamond?
Bergstein: Do your research. make sure that the diamond is coming from a spot that you simply think comfy with. Don't buy it as an investment because it isn't one. try to discover a means to have it each approaches: make sure you're procuring a moral product, in case you can do this, however also have the ring you want.
JCK: Do you own any diamonds, and how do you consider about them after penning this e-book?
Bergstein: I actually have a diamond engagement ring that I put on daily, and that i inherited a pair of diamond studs from my grandmother. I on no account basically concept of myself as a jewelry grownup, however when my husband proposed and received down on one knee and offered me with a hoop, I felt the power of that ritual. It overtook me inspite of myself. To journey that second with my husband, i can be aware why girls and men nevertheless want a part of it.
JCK: Did you study anything that surprised you?
Bergstein: There changed into an awful lot that I didn't know. I knew all the sound bites and studies that had been available from Google. but I didn't understand the artistry that changed into worried in slicing gemstones. I didn't understand how seriously jewelers take their work. I didn't recognize these families in the diamond industry commonly go returned generations. they're extremely happy with what they do. while i used to be frequently interested and surprised by means of lots of the terrible stuff, there have been positive issues that I wasn't aware of that made the story so a lot greater enjoyable. there were people who had so an awful lot pride in what they have been doing. i attempted to signify each aspects.
previous Diamond Dialogues:
An Anthropologist Talks About Why people need Diamonds
The jewelry trade and a changing, Graying the usa
The Diamond trade Is Being Disrupted
Why patrons Pay much less for "Tainted" Rings
(photograph courtesy of Rachelle Bergstein)
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